Cover credit:
Stolen Girlfriend's Club jacket and jeans
Kate Sylvester tie
Managing Director
Marnie Dibden Cate
marnie@pagesdigital.it
Editor-In-Chief
Lucinda Rose Constable
lucinda@pagesdigital.it
Assistant Editor
Lillian McKnight
lillian@pagesdigital.it
Account Manager
Prithi Dey
prithi@pagesdigital.it
Beauty Editor
Nicola Burford
nicola@pagesdigital.it
Senior Designer
Brooke Jury
Art Director
Faizal Reza
Creative Director
Seli Inthavong
Contributors
Tim Ashton, Nancy Sea Siler, Amanda Austin, Jolyon Mason,
Deborah Brider, Liz Kelsh and Kate Sylvester
editor's letter
The process of creating Issue 93 has been a bit of a ‘perfect storm’ – a combination of things working together to produce something quite drastic. The obvious change is our new art direction and layout, which, just quietly, we are rather excited by. We wanted to give our pages readers a new and fresh way of viewing all their favourite content. As always, any feedback would be appreciated!
There is a lot happening in the world of fashion right now – designer shuffling, brand new trends to think about and a barrage of new faces. It’s all a lot to take in, so we have decided to focus on some of the things we love. We were lucky enough to spend some quality phone time with the inimitable Charlotte Gainsbourg to hear about her new album, Stage Whisper. Of course, we managed to squeeze in some fashion talk too with the style icon. She is truly très charmant. Keeping with the Parisian theme, we wrap up the week that was Paris Fashion Week in pages Victors. There were definitely a few standout collections. Nicola Burford also picks the key hair and makeup trends to emerge from the season in Beauty Trend.
Our main fashion editorial, The Misfits, is rather epic this month. Amanda Austin and Jolyon Mason worked together to bring us a series of portraits of local talent, both on the model and designer front. The result is something quite raw and unique. Another unique soul, Kate Sylvester, lets us in to her life and wardrobe to see some of her favourite items in pages Pieces.
We were sad to say goodbye to Raf Simons at Jil Sander this past month. It truly is the end of an era. Although the original Jil is now back at the helm of her namesake brand, we can’t imagine the house without his prowess. We take a nostalgic look back at his tenure in pages Retrospective.
It is now only one month until our very own fashion week descends upon the Overseas Passenger Terminal. We are assured we are in for many new changes, especially now that Mercedes-Benz is back on board as supporting partner. Check the Pagesdigital website daily for updates. Until then, enjoy our perfect storm!
Lucinda x
editor's letter
The process of creating Issue 93 has been a bit of a ‘perfect storm’ – a combination of things working together to produce something quite drastic. The obvious change is our new art direction and layout, which, just quietly, we are rather excited by. We wanted to give our pages readers a new and fresh way of viewing all their favourite content. As always, any feedback would be appreciated!
There is a lot happening in the world of fashion right now – designer shuffling, brand new trends to think about and a barrage of new faces. It’s all a lot to take in, so we have decided to focus on some of the things we love. We were lucky enough to spend some quality phone time with the inimitable Charlotte Gainsbourg to hear about her new album, Stage Whisper. Of course, we managed to squeeze in some fashion talk too with the style icon. She is truly très charmant. Keeping with the Parisian theme, we wrap up the week that was Paris Fashion Week in pages Victors. There were definitely a few standout collections. Nicola Burford also picks the key hair and makeup trends to emerge from the season in Beauty Trend.
Our main fashion editorial, The Misfits, is rather epic this month. Amanda Austin and Jolyon Mason worked together to bring us a series of portraits of local talent, both on the model and designer front. The result is something quite raw and unique. Another unique soul, Kate Sylvester, lets us in to her life and wardrobe to see some of her favourite items in pages Pieces.
We were sad to say goodbye to Raf Simons at Jil Sander this past month. It truly is the end of an era. Although the original Jil is now back at the helm of her namesake brand, we can’t imagine the house without his prowess. We take a nostalgic look back at his tenure in pages Retrospective.
It is now only one month until our very own fashion week descends upon the Overseas Passenger Terminal. We are assured we are in for many new changes, especially now that Mercedes-Benz is back on board as supporting partner. Check the Pagesdigital website daily for updates. Until then, enjoy our perfect storm!
Lucinda x
LUCINDA ROSE CONSTABLE
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3.1 Phillip Lim AW1213 was an exercise in minimal dressing. That’s not to say it was boring though, it definitely wasn’t. The use of a basic colour palette was clean and refreshing – an easy uniform to adopt as we head into autumn. Your choice of accessories will add personality to the sleek look.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM AW1213
Market
3.1 Phillip Lim AW1213 was an exercise in minimal dressing. That’s not to say it was boring though, it definitely wasn’t. The use of a basic colour palette was clean and refreshing – an easy uniform to adopt as we head into autumn. Your choice of accessories will add personality to the sleek look.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
AW1213
Trend
One of the biggest trends to come off the AW1213 runways was
the use of leather. It’s no surprise, being the winter collections and
all, but it was the way it was worn that set this season apart. Our
favourite outing was the Hermès show, where leather was paired
with white shirting and wool suiting. It was one part western, and
one part bondage. And it couldn’t have been more perfect.
Therese Rawsthorne top $485
Shakuhachi shirt $189
Scanlan & Theodore pants $980
Fleet Ilya belt $630
Mania Mania necklace $390
Ellery shirt $510
Shakuhachi skirt $349
Lover jacket $1195
Mania Mania necklace $320
Trend
One of the biggest trends to come off the AW1213 runways was
the use of leather. It’s no surprise, being the winter collections and
all, but it was the way it was worn that set this season apart. Our
favourite outing was the Hermès show, where leather was paired
with white shirting and wool suiting. It was one part western, and
one part bondage. And it couldn’t have been more perfect.
Therese Rawsthorne top $485
Shakuhachi shirt $189
Scanlan & Theodore pants $980
Fleet Ilya belt $630
Mania Mania necklace $390
Ellery shirt $510
Shakuhachi skirt $349
Lover jacket $1195
Mania Mania necklace $320
Dion Lee shirt $590
and shorts $690
ASOS sunglasses $25
Josh Goot shirt $345
Kahlo leather top $300
and pants $200
Mania Mania necklace $320
Sportsgirl hat $40
Dion Lee shirt $590
and shorts $690
ASOS sunglasses $25
Josh Goot shirt $345
Kahlo leather top $300
and pants $200
Mania Mania necklace $320
Sportsgirl hat $40
Sara Phillips shirt $295
Rebecca Vallance dress
underneath $550
Francis Leon jacket $920
Fleet Illya belt $630
Mania Mania necklace $390
Sportsgirl hat $40
Photographer: Tim Ashton
Fashion Editor: Lucinda Rose Constable
Hair & Makeup: Nancy Sea Siler using Chanel
Model: Kendall @ Priscillas
Digital Operator: James Bailey
Antipodium dress $139
Dion Lee dress $3300
ASOS sunglasses $25
Scanlan & Theodore belt $240
Sara Phillips shirt $295
Rebecca Vallance dress
underneath $550
Francis Leon jacket $920
Fleet Illya belt $630
Mania Mania necklace $390
Sportsgirl hat $40
Photographer: Tim Ashton
Fashion Editor: Lucinda Rose Constable
Hair & Makeup: Nancy Sea Siler using Chanel
Model: Kendall @ Priscillas
Digital Operator: James Bailey
Antipodium dress $139
Dion Lee dress $3300
ASOS sunglasses $25
Scanlan & Theodore belt $240
Shop
Classic blooms were injected with
bright appeal at Preen AW1213. Give
traditional florals a new lease on life
with splashes of super strong shades.
Get the look now at Ausmode.
PREEN AW1213
Chronicles of Never
sunglasses $300
Shop
Classic blooms were injected with
bright appeal at Preen AW1213. Give
traditional florals a new lease on life
with splashes of super strong shades.
Get the look now at Ausmode.
PREEN AW1213
Chronicles of Never
sunglasses $300
Victors
Click on runway image for full review
Giambattista
Valli
Comme
des Garcons
Stella
McCartney
Lanvin
Dries van Noten
Balenciaga
You would be hard-pressed to find a woman who didn’t like Lanvin. Even though the style varies from season to season, there is a constant sense of fun when it comes to Alber Elbaz’s aesthetic. This was a particularly special collection, too. Everyone was present to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the house that Alber built, well, revived, in spectacular fashion. His tenure has taught women a great deal about dressing, and especially, dressing up. The glitz and glamour was not lost on AW1213, if anything it was heightened, and the girls were ready to party.
The opening exits set the scene straight away – a series of brightly coloured wool crepe looks, at once shocking with their all over intense hue, but easily wearable in their simplistic design. The show then moved in what would appear to be some kind of order, but the flow of colour, into slightly monastic, then back to party mode left us a little confused. Perhaps Elbaz was trying to fit all his ideas into this mega show? Embellishment is a Lanvin signature, and this season it was taken to the next level with heavily encrusted jewels adorning simple grey marle sheaths, turning a simple garment into something rather magnificent.
The final section of the show was a nod to 80s decadence – think gold lamé, huge ruffles, velvet, coloured fur stoles, diamantes, elbow-length coloured leather gloves and oversized costume jewellery. It was the polar opposite to the first looks we saw, but that’s what we love about Elbaz. He really knows how to build excitement within a collection and is ever the showman. All we can hope is that we will be enjoying the show for another ten years to come.
BackRewind a couple of years and we never would have thought Giambattista Valli would have made it into one of our fashion week wrap ups. However, he has emerged as one of the new big guns in recent seasons. After doing his time at Ungaro, Valli has had a long road to the top. His steady client base can be attributed for this recent meteoric rise, but all the same, his style has really developed. Whilst this may not be his best collection to date, we think it’s a great departure from his signature party dresses and into the realm of traditional ready-to-wear. Perhaps this change comes down to the fact that he has now been accepted into the elite school of couture. There he can showcase his more advanced ideas, leaving the accessible pieces on the RTW runway where they belong.
The show opened with a series of causal looks, mainly compromised of black and white knits and checkered prints. This is a new area for Valli, and something we are liking – a lot. The designer is cited with trying to get the “downtown Manhattan look”, perfectly captured through the first exit. It could pass for Downtown King Alexander Wang, but the following looks dispel that thought immediately. The show moves through a few waves – man style, ladylike, then into evening. There are various elements within this collection that remind us of some of our other favourites. Silhouettes take a cue from the couture master, Azzedine Alaia, the patchwork of prints are very Dries Van Noten and the geometric patterns in rusty hues draw reference from Proenza Schouler. That’s the thing with fashion, everything has been done before and there will always be someone who points it out. Regardless, we still love this collection from Valli and are hoping it’s a step in the right direction for this talented designer. Less glitz and glamour, more clean, refined and elegant. We’d wear it, that’s for sure.
BackDries Van Noten is the show we look forward to seeing the most when the new season rolls around. Van Noten is never the ‘It’ show, or the ‘It’ designer, he just sticks to his aesthetic consistently, and this is why the whole world loves him. Prints are his signature and this season he took to the archives of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Here, his team explored the archives for Japanese, Chinese and Korean iconography to be reappropriated into contemporary times. Van Noten has headed East before, but perhaps not in a way so literal. For this collection traditional kimonos and national dress were photographed, scanned, rearranged and digitally printed to create new garments. Somehow, in true Dries fashion, the old became modern once more.
Of course, there were elements of street wear interspersed with the madness. Khaki drill is a staple fabric for the house, lending a militant vibe to many collections. It’s this juxtaposition that keeps the brand so accessible to a range of customers. You can go straight to Van Noten for the perfect crisp white shirt, all-weather trench coat or a standout evening look. The Dries woman is definitely a trouser wearer. Several styles were showcased throughout the show, ranging from voluminous, pegged, straight and high-waisted. The cut is always impeccable and universally flattering for most women – a hard feat for any designer.
The last looks were inundated with turquoise grandeur, a beautiful trajectory into times past. Although you know the prints are steeped in heritage, the colours fit in with the modern gypsy style that has become so popular with many designers. Gold embroidery introduced a regal element to the show, harking back to China’s famous dynasties. It is not our favourite Dries collection ever, but in our eyes he is always a victor.
BackWhen it comes to Comme Des Garçons you think you have seen it all, but then Rei Kawakubo goes and does something completely left of centre. Well, generally everything she does is left of centre, but this collection really threw us out of the water. If anything, it was a feat of production abilities. The use of heavy felt, large sequins and thick quilting would not have made the machinists’ jobs very easy. Kawakubo has never been about the ready-to-wear aspect of clothing, in fact, rather the opposite. It’s almost like she makes things particularly difficult so that only the die-hard Comme fans, or the ones intelligent enough to ‘get it’ can be seen in her clothes. In a way, she is a fashion elitist, only catering to those brave enough to accept her challenge.
The opening looks of oversized felt tailoring were practically two-dimensional flat-pack outfits. They were somewhat reminiscent of the other Japanese great, Issey Miyake, and his revolutionary A-POC collection. A Piece Of Cloth consists of tubes of fabric, packaged and ready to be cut into various shapes by the consumer. Here, Kawakubo presented a similar idea, but obviously amplified greatly. The collection continued to descend into a delight of consistently crazy concoctions, now slathered in infantile prints of polka dots and hand-drawn flowers. The proportions and silhouettes got larger, even clown-like, until the audience was hit with a few interjectory slim-line floral looks, with the models completely covered from head to toe.
The last exits were Kawakubo’s take on traditional eveningwear, using stiff sequins as her fabric of choice. An obvious cliché for evening, we don’t think we’ll be seeing any of these gowns on the red carpet anytime soon. For now we’re just happy with the Comme Des Garçons spectacle and Kawakubo constantly challenging any preconceived notions we had about fashion.
BackThe master of reinvention is constantly thinking of ways to challenge the fashion audience and how to expand their horizons. Balenciaga fluctuates from season to season, sometimes it's more safe and beautiful, and at other times Nicolas Ghesquiere likes to put it out there. This was one of those times. On first viewing you could pick it apart and say this re-hash of the early 80s was undesirable, but on closer inspection the brilliance starts to shine through.
The first exists were quite tame, compared with what we were yet to see—sheer georgette was paired with contrast opaque hemming, a simple jacket thrown over the top. Slowly the looks became more and more disco, introducing a variety of leopard, snakeskin and zebra, mostly seen in metallic lamé. The colour palette was undeniably 80s—shocking purple, plum, beige, mustard, brassy silver, yellow, blue and brown. By all accounts it could have been an ugly mish-mash, but somehow it worked.
The silhouettes also seemed a little dubious, and something women that lived through that era have long tried to forget. Boxy shoulders stuck right out, harking back to the power suit, but now modernised through fabric developments like bonded leather. Slogan sweatshirts were a departure from the usually polished aesthetic, but will no doubt be a street style hit. Ruffle neck blouses also conjured up memories of 1980s mothers in their Laura Ashley looks. Maybe that's what's so special about Ghesquiere. He has the unique ability to have us nostalgic for the past, but zipping off into the future at the same time. What could have been a hot mess of a collection, and definitely will be in some people's eyes, came together in the end. It always does.
BackThere is a certain level of sophistication within this Stella McCartney collection that wasn't fully formed until AW1213. The show opened with a series of blue looks, each more covetable than the one before, culminating in Karlie Kloss' stunning column skirt and embroidered blouse. Along the way we saw the same style of long-sleeved blue dress, one demurely below the knee, and the other cropped into an A-line mini. Mother and daughter perhaps? The cut and make of these garments is of such high quality that they naturally sit perfectly on the body. The styles are rather simple, but quality is key in the world of luxury. It's McCartney's embroidery and embossing work that really brings the looks to life. The historic fleur-de-lis pattern has been emblazoned over a majority of the garments, but is quietly subtle when kept tonal.
The next big feature of this collection is the knitwear. The iconic twin-set, after having been banished to the cupboards of well-to-do older ladies, has suddenly become a contemporary must-have. It has now been extended into a mini-dress, replete with matching long-line cardigan over the top. This idea has also been translated into a padded out dress and a coral suit. Another interesting element at play here is the nod towards sports. Perhaps McCartney has sport on the brain after designing the British team uniforms for the upcoming London Olympics. Traditional black and white ribbing has been combined with tertiary tweeds for a twist on the hunting heritage Britain is so famous for. A long navy coat with black and purple ribbing is another standout.
The last few scuba-inspired looks will have the red carpet circuit gagging, much like the spotted numbers that garnered so much editorial this time last year. The slight shock of purple will be enough to send most girls (and boys) into overdrive, and the ruffle necks will keep things relatively modest. It’s official; we love this Stella McCartney collection.
BackVictors
Click on runway image for full review
Giambattista
Valli
Comme
des Garcons
Stella
McCartney
Lanvin
Dries van Noten
Balenciaga
You would be hard-pressed to find a woman who didn’t like Lanvin. Even though the style varies from season to season, there is a constant sense of fun when it comes to Alber Elbaz’s aesthetic. This was a particularly special collection, too. Everyone was present to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the house that Alber built, well, revived, in spectacular fashion. His tenure has taught women a great deal about dressing, and especially, dressing up. The glitz and glamour was not lost on AW1213, if anything it was heightened, and the girls were ready to party.
The opening exits set the scene straight away – a series of brightly coloured wool crepe looks, at once shocking with their all over intense hue, but easily wearable in their simplistic design. The show then moved in what would appear to be some kind of order, but the flow of colour, into slightly monastic, then back to party mode left us a little confused. Perhaps Elbaz was trying to fit all his ideas into this mega show? Embellishment is a Lanvin signature, and this season it was taken to the next level with heavily encrusted jewels adorning simple grey marle sheaths, turning a simple garment into something rather magnificent.
The final section of the show was a nod to 80s decadence – think gold lamé, huge ruffles, velvet, coloured fur stoles, diamantes, elbow-length coloured leather gloves and oversized costume jewellery. It was the polar opposite to the first looks we saw, but that’s what we love about Elbaz. He really knows how to build excitement within a collection and is ever the showman. All we can hope is that we will be enjoying the show for another ten years to come.
BackRewind a couple of years and we never would have thought Giambattista Valli would have made it into one of our fashion week wrap ups. However, he has emerged as one of the new big guns in recent seasons. After doing his time at Ungaro, Valli has had a long road to the top. His steady client base can be attributed for this recent meteoric rise, but all the same, his style has really developed. Whilst this may not be his best collection to date, we think it’s a great departure from his signature party dresses and into the realm of traditional ready-to-wear. Perhaps this change comes down to the fact that he has now been accepted into the elite school of couture. There he can showcase his more advanced ideas, leaving the accessible pieces on the RTW runway where they belong.
The show opened with a series of causal looks, mainly compromised of black and white knits and checkered prints. This is a new area for Valli, and something we are liking – a lot. The designer is cited with trying to get the “downtown Manhattan look”, perfectly captured through the first exit. It could pass for Downtown King Alexander Wang, but the following looks dispel that thought immediately. The show moves through a few waves – man style, ladylike, then into evening. There are various elements within this collection that remind us of some of our other favourites. Silhouettes take a cue from the couture master, Azzedine Alaia, the patchwork of prints are very Dries Van Noten and the geometric patterns in rusty hues draw reference from Proenza Schouler. That’s the thing with fashion, everything has been done before and there will always be someone who points it out. Regardless, we still love this collection from Valli and are hoping it’s a step in the right direction for this talented designer. Less glitz and glamour, more clean, refined and elegant. We’d wear it, that’s for sure.
BackDries Van Noten is the show we look forward to seeing the most when the new season rolls around. Van Noten is never the ‘It’ show, or the ‘It’ designer, he just sticks to his aesthetic consistently, and this is why the whole world loves him. Prints are his signature and this season he took to the archives of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Here, his team explored the archives for Japanese, Chinese and Korean iconography to be reappropriated into contemporary times. Van Noten has headed East before, but perhaps not in a way so literal. For this collection traditional kimonos and national dress were photographed, scanned, rearranged and digitally printed to create new garments. Somehow, in true Dries fashion, the old became modern once more.
Of course, there were elements of street wear interspersed with the madness. Khaki drill is a staple fabric for the house, lending a militant vibe to many collections. It’s this juxtaposition that keeps the brand so accessible to a range of customers. You can go straight to Van Noten for the perfect crisp white shirt, all-weather trench coat or a standout evening look. The Dries woman is definitely a trouser wearer. Several styles were showcased throughout the show, ranging from voluminous, pegged, straight and high-waisted. The cut is always impeccable and universally flattering for most women – a hard feat for any designer.
The last looks were inundated with turquoise grandeur, a beautiful trajectory into times past. Although you know the prints are steeped in heritage, the colours fit in with the modern gypsy style that has become so popular with many designers. Gold embroidery introduced a regal element to the show, harking back to China’s famous dynasties. It is not our favourite Dries collection ever, but in our eyes he is always a victor.
BackWhen it comes to Comme Des Garçons you think you have seen it all, but then Rei Kawakubo goes and does something completely left of centre. Well, generally everything she does is left of centre, but this collection really threw us out of the water. If anything, it was a feat of production abilities. The use of heavy felt, large sequins and thick quilting would not have made the machinists’ jobs very easy. Kawakubo has never been about the ready-to-wear aspect of clothing, in fact, rather the opposite. It’s almost like she makes things particularly difficult so that only the die-hard Comme fans, or the ones intelligent enough to ‘get it’ can be seen in her clothes. In a way, she is a fashion elitist, only catering to those brave enough to accept her challenge.
The opening looks of oversized felt tailoring were practically two-dimensional flat-pack outfits. They were somewhat reminiscent of the other Japanese great, Issey Miyake, and his revolutionary A-POC collection. A Piece Of Cloth consists of tubes of fabric, packaged and ready to be cut into various shapes by the consumer. Here, Kawakubo presented a similar idea, but obviously amplified greatly. The collection continued to descend into a delight of consistently crazy concoctions, now slathered in infantile prints of polka dots and hand-drawn flowers. The proportions and silhouettes got larger, even clown-like, until the audience was hit with a few interjectory slim-line floral looks, with the models completely covered from head to toe.
The last exits were Kawakubo’s take on traditional eveningwear, using stiff sequins as her fabric of choice. An obvious cliché for evening, we don’t think we’ll be seeing any of these gowns on the red carpet anytime soon. For now we’re just happy with the Comme Des Garçons spectacle and Kawakubo constantly challenging any preconceived notions we had about fashion.
BackThe master of reinvention is constantly thinking of ways to challenge the fashion audience and how to expand their horizons. Balenciaga fluctuates from season to season, sometimes it's more safe and beautiful, and at other times Nicolas Ghesquiere likes to put it out there. This was one of those times. On first viewing you could pick it apart and say this re-hash of the early 80s was undesirable, but on closer inspection the brilliance starts to shine through.
The first exists were quite tame, compared with what we were yet to see—sheer georgette was paired with contrast opaque hemming, a simple jacket thrown over the top. Slowly the looks became more and more disco, introducing a variety of leopard, snakeskin and zebra, mostly seen in metallic lamé. The colour palette was undeniably 80s—shocking purple, plum, beige, mustard, brassy silver, yellow, blue and brown. By all accounts it could have been an ugly mish-mash, but somehow it worked.
The silhouettes also seemed a little dubious, and something women that lived through that era have long tried to forget. Boxy shoulders stuck right out, harking back to the power suit, but now modernised through fabric developments like bonded leather. Slogan sweatshirts were a departure from the usually polished aesthetic, but will no doubt be a street style hit. Ruffle neck blouses also conjured up memories of 1980s mothers in their Laura Ashley looks. Maybe that's what's so special about Ghesquiere. He has the unique ability to have us nostalgic for the past, but zipping off into the future at the same time. What could have been a hot mess of a collection, and definitely will be in some people's eyes, came together in the end. It always does.
BackThere is a certain level of sophistication within this Stella McCartney collection that wasn't fully formed until AW1213. The show opened with a series of blue looks, each more covetable than the one before, culminating in Karlie Kloss' stunning column skirt and embroidered blouse. Along the way we saw the same style of long-sleeved blue dress, one demurely below the knee, and the other cropped into an A-line mini. Mother and daughter perhaps? The cut and make of these garments is of such high quality that they naturally sit perfectly on the body. The styles are rather simple, but quality is key in the world of luxury. It's McCartney's embroidery and embossing work that really brings the looks to life. The historic fleur-de-lis pattern has been emblazoned over a majority of the garments, but is quietly subtle when kept tonal.
The next big feature of this collection is the knitwear. The iconic twin-set, after having been banished to the cupboards of well-to-do older ladies, has suddenly become a contemporary must-have. It has now been extended into a mini-dress, replete with matching long-line cardigan over the top. This idea has also been translated into a padded out dress and a coral suit. Another interesting element at play here is the nod towards sports. Perhaps McCartney has sport on the brain after designing the British team uniforms for the upcoming London Olympics. Traditional black and white ribbing has been combined with tertiary tweeds for a twist on the hunting heritage Britain is so famous for. A long navy coat with black and purple ribbing is another standout.
The last few scuba-inspired looks will have the red carpet circuit gagging, much like the spotted numbers that garnered so much editorial this time last year. The slight shock of purple will be enough to send most girls (and boys) into overdrive, and the ruffle necks will keep things relatively modest. It’s official; we love this Stella McCartney collection.
BackMusic
“That was, for me, the end of music. It just stopped. There was no reason to do anything without him.”
Lillian McKnight
Listening to the syrupy, Channel-traversing tones of Charlotte Gainsbourg is an absorbing experience. So gently magnetic are those charmed chords of hers, you can almost feel yourself being drawn down the line. With a well-considered turn of phrase that betrays a life spent flitting between French and English and such mellifluous utterances, it’s easy to let Gainsbourg’s words simply wash over you. Belying her air-light cadence, however, are weightier forces. “I’m finding it really hard now because I can’t divide myself,” she says.
Image by Jean-Baptiste Mondino
Music
“That was, for me, the end
of music. It just stopped.
There was no reason to do
anything without him.”
Lillian McKnight
Listening to the syrupy, Channel-traversing tones of Charlotte Gainsbourg is an absorbing experience. So gently magnetic are those charmed chords of hers, you can almost feel yourself being drawn down the line. With a well-considered turn of phrase that betrays a life spent flitting between French and English and such mellifluous utterances, it’s easy to let Gainsbourg’s words simply wash over you. Belying her air-light cadence, however, are weightier forces. “I’m finding it really hard now because I can’t divide myself,” she says.
Image by Jean-Baptiste Mondino
With three young children, a star role in Lars Von Trier’s acclaimed new film Melancholia and a new album, it’s not hard to understand her anxiety.
Considering the independent success that Gainsbourg has achieved throughout her music and acting career, it seems almost crass to discuss the benefits of her parent’s legacy. But, the plain fact is that her heritage is as illustrious as they come. The daughter of Gallic legend Serge Gainsbourg and Swinging Sixties icon Jane Birkin, Gainsbourg openly concedes to the artistic burden of such a familial unit. “It does put enormous weight on my shoulders because I have to either forget about their work in order to be able to go forward or be inspired by their work.”
When Gainsbourg was nineteen, her father died, his funeral procession bringing the streets of Paris to an elegiac standstill. His daughter’s grief was exceptionally profound. “That was, for me, the end of music. It just stopped. There was no reason to do anything without him.” She would not release a follow up to 1986 debut Charlotte For Ever for another twenty years. Sophomore effort 5:55, released in 2006, finally saw her find her voice.
Gainsbourg’s latest album, Stage Whisper, carries an appropriate epithet considering the artist’s barely-there murmur. To hear her sing is akin to hearing a lover’s late night sweet nothings in your ear— clear, close and intimate, without the over studied nuances of the Idol set. The new release sees previously unreleased studio tracks intermingled with live recordings from 5:55 and the Beck produced IRM. For Gainsbourg, live recording marked a refreshing alternative to more conventional methods. “It was very spontaneous in a way. It was great not to think about it too much and to just let it happen. It was just easy. Quite light.”
A young Charlotte
Vogue Paris
With Nicolas Ghesquiere
With father Serge Gainsbourg
With three young children, a star role in Lars Von Trier’s acclaimed new film Melancholia and a new album, it’s not hard to understand her anxiety.
Considering the independent success that Gainsbourg has achieved throughout her music and acting career, it seems almost crass to discuss the benefits of her parent’s legacy. But, the plain fact is that her heritage is as illustrious as they come. The daughter of Gallic legend Serge Gainsbourg and Swinging Sixties icon Jane Birkin, Gainsbourg openly concedes to the artistic burden of such a familial unit. “It does put enormous weight on my shoulders because I have to either forget about their work in order to be able to go forward or be inspired by their work.”
When Gainsbourg was nineteen, her father died, his funeral procession bringing the streets of Paris to an elegiac standstill. His daughter’s grief was exceptionally profound. “That was, for me, the end of music. It just stopped. There was no reason to do anything without him.” She would not release a follow up to 1986 debut Charlotte For Ever for another twenty years. Sophomore effort 5:55, released in 2006, finally saw her find her voice.
Gainsbourg’s latest album, Stage Whisper, carries an appropriate epithet considering the artist’s barely-there murmur. To hear her sing is akin to hearing a lover’s late night sweet nothings in your ear— clear, close and intimate, without the over studied nuances of the Idol set. The new release sees previously unreleased studio tracks intermingled with live recordings from 5:55 and the Beck produced IRM. For Gainsbourg, live recording marked a refreshing alternative to more conventional methods. “It was very spontaneous in a way. It was great not to think about it too much and to just let it happen. It was just easy. Quite light.”
A young Charlotte
Vogue Paris
With Nicolas Ghesquiere
With father Serge Gainsbourg
Light may have been the process, but Gainsbourg’s list of collaborators on Stage Whisper is anything but. Having teamed up with the likes of Charlie Fink of Noah and the Whale, and psychedelic pop musician Connan Mockasin, the record sees Beck return to the post of producer. Gainsbourg sees her latest effort as a more intimate affair, thanks in part to her evolving relationship with Beck. “There’s a complicity because we know each other better and I think that he has a way of understanding what I want and putting words into my mouth that could be mine. He has a way of entering my head.”
Considering her mother was the impetus behind what has arguably become the most legendary accessory of all time (Hermès’ highly sought Birkin bag), Gainsbourg’s style pedigree is not debatable. As the muse and face of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga, her unstudied elegance has made her somewhat of a contemporary style icon. Such definitive titles, however, trouble her. “I’m very flattered, but I don’t know what it means. I love being able to forget what I look like and how I dress. I just don’t care that much.” Perhaps, I suggest, in a world where over-preened pageantry is the norm, Gainsbourg’s admirers like her for just that reason. She agrees. “I’m always in my same pair of jeans with the same boots. It’s the way I find myself after doing interviews, talking about myself, making films.” She pauses. “It’s nice to come back to who you are.”
Despite the challenges of spreading her name over such a wide canvas, Gainsbourg has learned to relish the opportunities that her multifarious talents allow. “Sometimes people ask me if I’m an actress or a singer. But I don’t need to separate them. I’m happy being a little of both.” The girl who lost her voice for twenty years, then, has really grown up. “I think I’ve changed a lot. Just becoming an adult, and so becoming myself. And I imagine I’m still not myself. I’m still looking for who I am.”
Balenciaga
2005
Balenciaga
SS2003
With mother Jane Birkin
'Stage Whisper'
Light may have been the process, but Gainsbourg’s list of collaborators on Stage Whisper is anything but. Having teamed up with the likes of Charlie Fink of Noah and the Whale, and psychedelic pop musician Connan Mockasin, the record sees Beck return to the post of producer. Gainsbourg sees her latest effort as a more intimate affair, thanks in part to her evolving relationship with Beck. “There’s a complicity because we know each other better and I think that he has a way of understanding what I want and putting words into my mouth that could be mine. He has a way of entering my head.”
Considering her mother was the impetus behind what has arguably become the most legendary accessory of all time (Hermès’ highly sought Birkin bag), Gainsbourg’s style pedigree is not debatable. As the muse and face of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga, her unstudied elegance has made her somewhat of a contemporary style icon. Such definitive titles, however, trouble her. “I’m very flattered, but I don’t know what it means. I love being able to forget what I look like and how I dress. I just don’t care that much.” Perhaps, I suggest, in a world where over-preened pageantry is the norm, Gainsbourg’s admirers like her for just that reason. She agrees. “I’m always in my same pair of jeans with the same boots. It’s the way I find myself after doing interviews, talking about myself, making films.” She pauses. “It’s nice to come back to who you are.”
Despite the challenges of spreading her name over such a wide canvas, Gainsbourg has learned to relish the opportunities that her multifarious talents allow. “Sometimes people ask me if I’m an actress or a singer. But I don’t need to separate them. I’m happy being a little of both.” The girl who lost her voice for twenty years, then, has really grown up. “I think I’ve changed a lot. Just becoming an adult, and so becoming myself. And I imagine I’m still not myself. I’m still looking for who I am.”
Balenciaga
2005
Balenciaga
SS2003
With mother Jane Birkin
'Stage Whisper'
Shoot
Photographer: Amanda Austin
Fashion Editor: Jolyon Mason
Shoot
Photographer: Amanda Austin
Fashion Editor: Jolyon Mason
Antipodium jacket
Kate Sylvester jacket, sweater and skirt
Antipodium jacket
Kate Sylvester jacket, sweater and skirt
camilla and marc sweater
Wrangler jacket
ksubi jeans
Zambesi hat
Miss Fitz nose ring
camilla and marc sweater
Wrangler jacket
ksubi jeans
Zambesi hat
Miss Fitz nose ring
Romance Was Born dress
Stolen Girlfriends
Club backpack
Vanishing Elephant shorts
Romance Was Born dress
Stolen Girlfriends
Club backpack
Vanishing Elephant shorts
Romance Was Born coat
Zambesi dress
Insight top
Romance Was Born coat
Zambesi dress
Insight top
Zambesi shirt
and jumpsuit
Wet & Wendy umbrella
Model’s own shoes
Zambesi dress
Zambesi shirt
and jumpsuit
Wet & Wendy umbrella
Model’s own shoes
Zambesi dress
Stolen Girlfriends Club jacket and jeans
Kate Sylvester tie
Zambesi jumpsuit
Stolen Girlfriends Club jacket and jeans
Kate Sylvester tie
Zambesi jumpsuit
Stolen Girlfriends
Club dress
Nancy Ganz shorts
Sretsis dress
Stolen Girlfriends
Club dress
Nancy Ganz shorts
Sretsis dress
Lover poncho
ksubi jeans
Tina Kalivas dress
Lover poncho
ksubi jeans
Tina Kalivas dress
Antipodium jacket and skirt
Manning Cartell dress
Antipodium jacket and skirt
Manning Cartell dress
Zambesi shirt
Hair: Deborah Brider
Make-Up: Liz Kelsh
Models: Rachel @ Chic
Max, James, Nathaniel, Anja & Emma @ Priscillas
Angelique, Eilika & Jack @ eMg
Dut @ The Agency
Zambesi shirt
Hair: Deborah Brider
Make-Up: Liz Kelsh
Models: Rachel @ Chic
Max, James, Nathaniel, Anja & Emma @ Priscillas
Angelique, Eilika & Jack @ eMg
Dut @ The Agency
Beauty news
Photographer: Gregory Novak
Fashion Editor: Chris Lorimer
Words: Nicola Burford
Jimmy D harness
Gary Bigeni bra
Beauty news
Photographer: Gregory Novak
Fashion Editor: Chris Lorimer
Words: Nicola Burford
Jimmy D harness
Gary Bigeni bra
Click on products for tips
Meadowlark harness
Gary Bigeni bra
Jimmy D briefs
Already a favourite backstage at the AW1213 collections, this new offering from Nars has a simple philosophy: skin should shine through makeup. The oil free moisturising formula also obscures the appearance of imperfections and is available in nine skin shades.
RRP $79
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 30th April 2012
One of the new guard in makeup, Hourglass cosmetics has a huge following with celebs in the US. This foundation leaves no shine, doesn’t need powder to set and requires no blotting. It lasts all day and leaves a skin perfecting, lightweight finish. But can it change a tyre?
RRP $78
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 30th April 2012
A new generation of formula from Clarins - a fine, lightweight, oil free foundation leaving a totally matte finish. It also contains sunscreen for optimum protection and is really comfortable to wear.
RRP $60
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 21st May 2012
Inspired by nature, Fekkai’s Brilliant Glossing collection now features encapsulated technology to help deliver reflective shine from root to tip. With nourishing natural ingredients such as olive oil, the Brilliant Glossing collection of shampoo, conditioner and treatments works to refresh your shine for fabulous hair throughout the day.
RRP $38
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 1st April 2012
Perfect for dehydrated hair that needs softness and reinvigorated body and bounce. This treatment masque detangles and rehydrates, is colour safe and best when used once or twice a week.
RRP $36
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au
Spray on to dry hair before curling with a heated styling tong or wand to give long lasting, bouncy curls. Containing the famous ghd Heat Protection System it’s not limited to creating just curls - use it for soft waves and flicks as well.
RRP $29
STOCKIST Available from ghd salons nationally and www.ghd.com
The mascara for 2012 that has sent makeup artists and beauty editors into a frenzy. This clever little brush enables you to easily apply horizontally and vertically making your lashes big, bold and beautiful beyond belief.
RRP $38
STOCKIST 02 8353 5000
Inspired by the Sophie Lancaster Foundation, the anti-prejudice charity Illamasqua proudly supports, this jet-black pencil will take your smoky eyes to a new intensity. $5 goes directly to the charity on purchase.
RRP $33
STOCKIST www.myer.com.au
The centrepiece of the Tom Ford Cosmetics collection, this wardrobe of colours has super adhesion on the skin and state of the art colour processing to give the most luxurious finish. The entire Tom Ford Cosmetics range is already proving to be at the forefront of the best makeup brands.
RRP $100
STOCKIST 1800 061 326. Exclusive to David Jones Elizabeth Street, Sydney and Bourke Street, Melbourne
Click on products for tips
Meadowlark harness
Gary Bigeni bra
Jimmy D briefs
Already a favourite backstage at the AW1213 collections, this new offering from Nars has a simple philosophy: skin should shine through makeup. The oil free moisturising formula also obscures the appearance of imperfections and is available in nine skin shades.
RRP $79
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 30th April 2012
One of the new guard in makeup, Hourglass cosmetics has a huge following with celebs in the US. This foundation leaves no shine, doesn’t need powder to set and requires no blotting. It lasts all day and leaves a skin perfecting, lightweight finish. But can it change a tyre?
RRP $78
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 30th April 2012
A new generation of formula from Clarins - a fine, lightweight, oil free foundation leaving a totally matte finish. It also contains sunscreen for optimum protection and is really comfortable to wear.
RRP $60
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 21st May 2012
Inspired by nature, Fekkai’s Brilliant Glossing collection now features encapsulated technology to help deliver reflective shine from root to tip. With nourishing natural ingredients such as olive oil, the Brilliant Glossing collection of shampoo, conditioner and treatments works to refresh your shine for fabulous hair throughout the day.
RRP $38
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au from 1st April 2012
Perfect for dehydrated hair that needs softness and reinvigorated body and bounce. This treatment masque detangles and rehydrates, is colour safe and best when used once or twice a week.
RRP $36
STOCKIST 1800 007 8444 or www.meccacosmetica.com.au
Spray on to dry hair before curling with a heated styling tong or wand to give long lasting, bouncy curls. Containing the famous ghd Heat Protection System it’s not limited to creating just curls - use it for soft waves and flicks as well.
RRP $29
STOCKIST Available from ghd salons nationally and www.ghd.com
The mascara for 2012 that has sent makeup artists and beauty editors into a frenzy. This clever little brush enables you to easily apply horizontally and vertically making your lashes big, bold and beautiful beyond belief.
RRP $38
STOCKIST 02 8353 5000
Inspired by the Sophie Lancaster Foundation, the anti-prejudice charity Illamasqua proudly supports, this jet-black pencil will take your smoky eyes to a new intensity. $5 goes directly to the charity on purchase.
RRP $33
STOCKIST www.myer.com.au
The centrepiece of the Tom Ford Cosmetics collection, this wardrobe of colours has super adhesion on the skin and state of the art colour processing to give the most luxurious finish. The entire Tom Ford Cosmetics range is already proving to be at the forefront of the best makeup brands.
RRP $100
STOCKIST 1800 061 326. Exclusive to David Jones Elizabeth Street, Sydney and Bourke Street, Melbourne
Click on products for tips
Maaike coat
Stylist’s own neckpiece
Meadowlark 4 Jimmy D ring
Hair:
Shontal Healey
using Kevin Murphy
Makeup:
Grayson Coutts
Model:
Bente @ Chadwick
Shot @ kingsize studios
SKII’s most luxurious and powerful range, LXP, has newly upgraded its LXP Ultimate Perfecting Serum formula to deliver a boost of nutrients for long lasting hydration and optimal crystal clarity. LXP Ultimate Perfecting Serum helps maintain skin’s moisture and translucency to achieve revitalised, recharged skin.
RRP $395
STOCKIST 1800 012 169 or www.sk-ii.com.au
The new Larger Than Life Lip Gloss LASTS! It also contains a natural lip enhancer to add volume and plumpness to the lips and won’t feather. The nine different shades provide rich, intense colour.
RRP $49
STOCKIST www.meccacosmetica.com.au or 1800 007 844
Developed specifically for combination and oily skin types, this new lightweight and oil-free formula improves your skin’s tone and uniformity over time. It is designed to combat dark spots and discolouration, while also providing protection from the number one cause of hyper pigmentation – UVA/UVB rays.
RRP $90
STOCKIST www.clinique.com.au from 29th April 2012
The unique Just Kissed formula includes time-release peptides to increase hydration and stimulate collagen synthesis. Oils of lemon and tangerine gently exfoliate the lips while shea butter, sunflower and avocado oils moisturise. The colour is perfect for the autumnal red lip trend too - clever little lipstick!
RRP $56
STOCKIST 1300 SKINCARE
An outstanding new force in lip colour – a serious glossy stain that leaves a luxurious finish and lasts longer than a traditional lip-gloss. Available in a palette of 12 different colours, the packaging is luxurious and glamorous too.
RRP $50
STOCKIST 1300 651 991
A breakthrough in technology, two treatments working in harmony for the eyes that surpass skin cell renewal, vitality and strength. It conatins the unique and clinically proven benefits of Glacial Bio Extract discovered in the depths of Antarctica where life was thriving in the harshest of environments. Want. It. NOW.
RRP $550
STOCKIST 1800 061 326 or www.esteelauder.com.au from 15 April 2012
Olay moisturiser and Max Factor foundation have merged - into a tinted moisturiser! Eliminating the need to layer a separate moisturiser, sunscreen and foundation, the Touch of Foundation maintains healthy skin with a sheer, luminous finish.
RRP $14.69
STOCKIST 1800 028 280 or www.olay.com.au
This rich, creamy moisturiser containing rosehip oil helps to improve the skin’s moisture levels, which protects, softens and soothes the skin. It’s a perfect ‘first moisturiser’ that’s set to become a favourite.
RRP $50
STOCKIST www.jurlique.com
This little jar of moisturising goodness by Nivea is the most trusted skin emulsion around the globe. Originally developed in 1911, there have been more than 100 million tins sold in over 200 countries to date. The humble blue tin was the first skin care product to go into orbit on board a space shuttle!
RRP from $6.94
STOCKIST 1800 103 023
Already a cult in yummy smelling fragrances, the DKNY Delicious range now introduces the Sweet Delicious collection - influenced by Cupcakes, no less! The fragrance collection comprises of three aromas set to make your mouth water - Tart Key Lime, Pink Macaron and Creamy Meringue.
RRP $75
STOCKIST available at Myer, David Jones and the Perfume Connection nationally.
This 5-in-1 multi-tasking miracle worker is proven to hydrate, prime, perfect, protect and control oil all in a single step. The revolutionary tinted formula instantly evens out complexion without settling into fine lines and pores. Better yet, it banishes shine.
RRP $54.95
STOCKIST www.kitcosmetics.com or 1800 705 800.
Perfect for autumn, the new Poppy Flower fragrance is vibrant and light hearted, layering fresh herbal notes with warm hints of musk and exotic woods. It’s available in eau de parfum, body lotion and an eau de parfum dual roller ball.
RRP from $40
STOCKIST exclusively at Coach Stores and Boutiques
Click on products for tips
Maaike coat
Stylist’s own neckpiece
Meadowlark 4 Jimmy D ring
Hair:
Shontal Healey
using Kevin Murphy
Makeup:
Grayson Coutts
Model:
Bente @ Chadwick
Shot @ kingsize studios
SKII’s most luxurious and powerful range, LXP, has newly upgraded its LXP Ultimate Perfecting Serum formula to deliver a boost of nutrients for long lasting hydration and optimal crystal clarity. LXP Ultimate Perfecting Serum helps maintain skin’s moisture and translucency to achieve revitalised, recharged skin.
RRP $395
STOCKIST 1800 012 169 or www.sk-ii.com.au
The new Larger Than Life Lip Gloss LASTS! It also contains a natural lip enhancer to add volume and plumpness to the lips and won’t feather. The nine different shades provide rich, intense colour.
RRP $49
STOCKIST www.meccacosmetica.com.au or 1800 007 844
Developed specifically for combination and oily skin types, this new lightweight and oil-free formula improves your skin’s tone and uniformity over time. It is designed to combat dark spots and discolouration, while also providing protection from the number one cause of hyper pigmentation – UVA/UVB rays.
RRP $90
STOCKIST www.clinique.com.au from 29th April 2012
The unique Just Kissed formula includes time-release peptides to increase hydration and stimulate collagen synthesis. Oils of lemon and tangerine gently exfoliate the lips while shea butter, sunflower and avocado oils moisturise. The colour is perfect for the autumnal red lip trend too - clever little lipstick!
RRP $56
STOCKIST 1300 SKINCARE
An outstanding new force in lip colour – a serious glossy stain that leaves a luxurious finish and lasts longer than a traditional lip-gloss. Available in a palette of 12 different colours, the packaging is luxurious and glamorous too.
RRP $50
STOCKIST 1300 651 991
A breakthrough in technology, two treatments working in harmony for the eyes that surpass skin cell renewal, vitality and strength. It conatins the unique and clinically proven benefits of Glacial Bio Extract discovered in the depths of Antarctica where life was thriving in the harshest of environments. Want. It. NOW.
RRP $550
STOCKIST 1800 061 326 or www.esteelauder.com.au from 15 April 2012
Olay moisturiser and Max Factor foundation have merged - into a tinted moisturiser! Eliminating the need to layer a separate moisturiser, sunscreen and foundation, the Touch of Foundation maintains healthy skin with a sheer, luminous finish.
RRP $14.69
STOCKIST 1800 028 280 or www.olay.com.au
This rich, creamy moisturiser containing rosehip oil helps to improve the skin’s moisture levels, which protects, softens and soothes the skin. It’s a perfect ‘first moisturiser’ that’s set to become a favourite.
RRP $50
STOCKIST www.jurlique.com
This little jar of moisturising goodness by Nivea is the most trusted skin emulsion around the globe. Originally developed in 1911, there have been more than 100 million tins sold in over 200 countries to date. The humble blue tin was the first skin care product to go into orbit on board a space shuttle!
RRP from $6.94
STOCKIST 1800 103 023
Already a cult in yummy smelling fragrances, the DKNY Delicious range now introduces the Sweet Delicious collection - influenced by Cupcakes, no less! The fragrance collection comprises of three aromas set to make your mouth water - Tart Key Lime, Pink Macaron and Creamy Meringue.
RRP $75
STOCKIST available at Myer, David Jones and the Perfume Connection nationally.
This 5-in-1 multi-tasking miracle worker is proven to hydrate, prime, perfect, protect and control oil all in a single step. The revolutionary tinted formula instantly evens out complexion without settling into fine lines and pores. Better yet, it banishes shine.
RRP $54.95
STOCKIST www.kitcosmetics.com or 1800 705 800.
Perfect for autumn, the new Poppy Flower fragrance is vibrant and light hearted, layering fresh herbal notes with warm hints of musk and exotic woods. It’s available in eau de parfum, body lotion and an eau de parfum dual roller ball.
RRP from $40
STOCKIST exclusively at Coach Stores and Boutiques
Beauty Trend
Ann Demeulemeester
Gucci
Bottega Veneta
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Prada
3.1 Phillip Lim
Dries Van Noten
Harmony and conflict met in equal measure for AW1213— in hair and makeup, light vied with dark. Backstage, beauty was about the sum of a powerful woman— the purity of innate femininity versus her warrior strength and boldness. This is the yin and yang of sophisticated beauty.
A new shade of Victorian gothic has emerged, inspired by the film of the moment, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Think dark, damson lips and graphic, dirty black eye makeup. Hair has been powerfully punked with mohawks, kept naturally unkempt, or given sleek graphic shapes with fake fringes and ponytails.
Beauty Trend
Ann Demeulemeester
Gucci
Bottega Veneta
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Prada
3.1 Phillip Lim
Dries Van Noten
Harmony and conflict met in equal measure for AW1213— in hair and makeup, light vied with dark. Backstage, beauty was about the sum of a powerful woman— the purity of innate femininity versus her warrior strength and boldness. This is the yin and yang of sophisticated beauty.
A new shade of Victorian gothic has emerged, inspired by the film of the moment, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Think dark, damson lips and graphic, dirty black eye makeup. Hair has been powerfully punked with mohawks, kept naturally unkempt, or given sleek graphic shapes with fake fringes and ponytails.
The muse’s purity has been best represented by looks depicting Pre-Raphaelite and medieval icons with translucent skin, subtle contouring and luminous halos of light-filled colour. Braided, roped and centre-parted up-styles and wrapped hair, slicked ponies, or hair left to nature highlighted her innocence. Power in purity for makeup was also referenced by carefree, simple application of natural colour and concealer.
Neither the dark nor the light proved more dominant. Both were equally as powerful and mesmerising. There was a crossover of the trends where statement hair was matched with barely-there makeup. There were Nordic warriors and Russian dolls with clear skin— as luminous and cold as snow— a statement bold lip, and a reckless beauty, referenced with undone hair and sepia tinted eyes and cheeks.
Chanel
Hermes
Fendi
Thakoon
Alexander McQueen
Burberry
The muse’s purity has been best represented by looks depicting Pre-Raphaelite and medieval icons with translucent skin, subtle contouring and luminous halos of light-filled colour. Braided, roped and centre-parted up-styles and wrapped hair, slicked ponies, or hair left to nature highlighted her innocence. Power in purity for makeup was also referenced by carefree, simple application of natural colour and concealer.
Neither the dark nor the light proved more dominant. Both were equally as powerful and mesmerising. There was a crossover of the trends where statement hair was matched with barely-there makeup. There were Nordic warriors and Russian dolls with clear skin— as luminous and cold as snow— a statement bold lip, and a reckless beauty, referenced with undone hair and sepia tinted eyes and cheeks.
Chanel
Hermes
Fendi
Thakoon
Alexander McQueen
Burberry
Sub-trends that emerged from these principles were bold graphic liner or Japanese manga-like stripes of colour on the eye; bold, straight brows (a testament to feminine strength) or alternatively no brows at all. The now pervasive bold lip was this season rendered in all manner of textures, stains and tints, but always in red. Continuing on from last season, smoky eyes were brown tinted and creamy.
Nail art was still popular, however less playful and more sophisticated with colour blocked French manicures looking to be a statement for the season.
D&G
Pucci
Balmain
Chloe
Christian Dior
Sub-trends that emerged from these principles were bold graphic liner or Japanese manga-like stripes of colour on the eye; bold, straight brows (a testament to feminine strength) or alternatively no brows at all. The now pervasive bold lip was this season rendered in all manner of textures, stains and tints, but always in red. Continuing on from last season, smoky eyes were brown tinted and creamy.
Nail art was still popular, however less playful and more sophisticated with colour blocked French manicures looking to be a statement for the season.
D&G
Pucci
Balmain
Chloe
Christian Dior
Retrospective
With a gently blushing palette and softly-spun silhouettes, Raf Simons’ final collection for Jil Sander was a sartorial love letter that captured the essence of his tenure as the label’s creative director. It was an appropriate farewell for the Belgian designer, whose time at the helm was indeed the finest of fashionable romances.
As a student of industrial design, Simons’ flair lay in his silhouettes. At once sculptural, fluid and seasonally fresh, he brought wearable architectural form to fashion. Self-schooled in the art of menswear, Simons ascended to the mantle of Jil Sander in 2005. His incumbency saw the designer wield minimalism as a signature long before it became a seasonal style. He colour-blocked before it was cool and always imbued his womenswear with a knowing masculine fortitude.
As Raf Simons departs Jil Sander to make way for the label’s eponymous founder, one can’t help but feel that his name has become indelibly intermingled with that of the house he imbued so thoroughly with his own peerless vision. Raf, after all, could always be relied upon. Let’s hope that soon, Raf Simons— the name and the man— will decide to speak ever-so eloquently for himself.
Raf
Simons
SS2011 RTW
AW1213
Eyewear
SS2011
i-D Pre-Fall
2011 by
Emma
Summerton
SS2008
Retrospective
With a gently blushing palette and softly-spun silhouettes, Raf Simons’ final collection for Jil Sander was a sartorial love letter that captured the essence of his tenure as the label’s creative director. It was an appropriate farewell for the Belgian designer, whose time at the helm was indeed the finest of fashionable romances.
As a student of industrial design, Simons’ flair lay in his silhouettes. At once sculptural, fluid and seasonally fresh, he brought wearable architectural form to fashion. Self-schooled in the art of menswear, Simons ascended to the mantle of Jil Sander in 2005. His incumbency saw the designer wield minimalism as a signature long before it became a seasonal style. He colour-blocked before it was cool and always imbued his womenswear with a knowing masculine fortitude.
As Raf Simons departs Jil Sander to make way for the label’s eponymous founder, one can’t help but feel that his name has become indelibly intermingled with that of the house he imbued so thoroughly with his own peerless vision. Raf, after all, could always be relied upon. Let’s hope that soon, Raf Simons— the name and the man— will decide to speak ever-so eloquently for himself.
Raf
Simons
SS2011 RTW
AW1213
Eyewear
SS2011
i-D Pre-Fall
2011 by
Emma
Summerton
SS2008
SS2012
Mia Wasikowska
by Laurence Passera
for Dazed & Confused
March 2010
AW2007
Harper's
Bazaar
Australia
Jan 2012
SS2009
Menswear
SS2009
AW2009
AW2009
Muse
issue 26
Summer
2011
by Chad
Pitman
AW2008
SS2009
SS2012
Mia Wasikowska
by Laurence Passera
for Dazed & Confused
March 2010
AW2007
Harper's
Bazaar
Australia
Jan 2012
SS2009
Menswear
SS2009
AW2009
AW2009
Muse
issue 26
Summer
2011
by Chad
Pitman
AW2008
SS2009
Julia Restoin-Roitfeld
SS2007
SS2011
Menswear
AW2008
Numero Tokyo
May 2011 by
Lina Scheynius
Muse
AW2011
by Mariano
Vivanco
Menswear
AW2008
SS2008
Pre-Fall 2012
AW1011
SS2011
Julia Restoin-Roitfeld
SS2007
SS2011
Menswear
AW2008
Numero Tokyo
May 2011 by
Lina Scheynius
Muse
AW2011
by Mariano
Vivanco
Menswear
AW2008
SS2008
Pre-Fall 2012
AW1011
SS2011
Pieces
Kate Sylvester is the subtle subversive the fashion world has loved since her label’s inception in 1993. Ever since then she has forged her way as one of the most exciting labels to come out of the Southern Hemisphere. Sylvester’s personal style is mimicked through her brand – a mix of classic, modern femininity, intelligence and witty irreverence. Here she shares some of her favourite personal items with pages.
I’m a total heels girl. But I couldn’t resist these loafers, which we have in store now.
I love this movie and we based our Winter 2012 collection on Maggie Gyllenhaal’s character. She’s very, very good and very, very bad – a true Kate Sylvester girl.
I love taking classic, iconic clothing and giving it an unexpected, subversive twist. The gold studs are both punk and luxe.
Every morning I give my sons big red kisses on their cheeks! I feel naked without a slash of red lipstick.
I’m an obsessive reader so I love our opticals collection. Sexy nerd is such a good look.
I have just ordered a custom set of these
gorgeous rings in gold. One for each finger
of my left hand, with the initials of my 4 boys
– my husband and 3 sons.
If I couldn’t be me, I’d choose to be a
Proenza Schouler girl – I think these
two are genius and I’d be very happy
in their gang!
I write
everything in
long hand and
with my new
phone I can still
write in the digital
age – genius!
Pieces
Kate Sylvester is the subtle subversive the fashion world has loved since her label’s inception in 1993. Ever since then she has forged her way as one of the most exciting labels to come out of the Southern Hemisphere. Sylvester’s personal style is mimicked through her brand – a mix of classic, modern femininity, intelligence and witty irreverence. Here she shares some of her favourite personal items with pages.
I’m a total heels girl. But I couldn’t resist these loafers, which we have in store now.
I love this movie and we based our Winter 2012 collection on Maggie Gyllenhaal’s character. She’s very, very good and very, very bad – a true Kate Sylvester girl.
I love taking classic, iconic clothing
and giving it an unexpected,
subversive twist. The gold studs
are both punk and luxe.
Every morning I give my sons big red kisses on their cheeks! I feel naked without a slash of red lipstick.
I’m an obsessive reader so I love our opticals collection. Sexy nerd is such a good look.
I have just ordered a custom set of these
gorgeous rings in gold. One for each finger
of my left hand, with the initials of my 4 boys
– my husband and 3 sons.
If I couldn’t be me, I’d choose to be a
Proenza Schouler girl – I think these
two are genius and I’d be very happy
in their gang!
I write
everything in
long hand and
with my new
phone I can still
write in the digital
age – genius!
Lens
Henrik Isaksson Garnell lives and works in a forest just outside of Stockholm. This explains his love of all things nature and his unique way of portraying landforms. Garnell combines organic objects with man-made items, such as wires and lights, and captures the results. His unconventional methods combine the artistic and the scientific in a way not seen before.
Lens
Henrik Isaksson Garnell lives and works in a forest just outside of Stockholm. This explains his love of all things nature and his unique way of portraying landforms. Garnell combines organic objects with man-made items, such as wires and lights, and captures the results. His unconventional methods combine the artistic and the scientific in a way not seen before.
Stockists
Kate of Arcadia neckpiece
Gary Bigeni bra
Jimmy D over piece and briefs
Photographer: Gregory Novak
Fashion Editor: Chris Lorimer
Stockists
Kate of Arcadia neckpiece
Gary Bigeni bra
Jimmy D over piece and briefs
Photographer: Gregory Novak
Fashion Editor: Chris Lorimer